Changing Ride Position.
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
Posts: 328

PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 9:42 pm    Post subject: Changing Ride Position. Reply with quote

I'm wanting to change the ride position while on my bike as I currently feel a little outstretched and leant over the bars.

I still have the stock components on the bike which are

90mm stem with 9 degree rise
720mm bars with I think 15mm rise

I also have my seat set quite far back as this makes my legs feel positioned more comfortable over the cranks


where would be the best place to start? shorter stem 60-65mm, bars with more rise or a seat post with a setback clamp?
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Will



Joined: 25 Sep 2012
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Location: Stafford

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Start by changing your stem length - by how much ? only you can decide that but you would be surprised how much difference 20mm shorter will make to your ride position.
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giantAstax



Joined: 05 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Changing Ride Position. Reply with quote

Markss wrote:
.........where would be the best place to start? shorter stem 60-65mm, bars with more rise or a seat post with a setback clamp?


I'd start with seat position and seat height. With your heel on the pedal at 6pm (down) you should have an almost straight leg when sat on the seat. Once you have this done, sit on the bike with the pedals parallel to the ground. Get a pice of string and a pumb-bob and place the string on the front of your knee just below the highest sticky out bit (I'm sure there's an anatomical name). If you have cleats they must be aligned first and correctly but in any case with the ball of your foot in the centre of the pedal the 'bob' should run down in a straight vertical line through the centre of the pedal spindle. You then move your seat fore or aft until this is correct.

Also your seat must be level at this stage. Then check seat height again. If you make any major changes go through the plug bob exercise again.

This is a basic XC setup so you may find you want to tweak it a little (seat height down a cm or two and seat forward r back a cm).

Once this is done, start by placing your elbow touching the front nose/edge of the seat and your arm pointing towards the handle bars. ideally your finger tips should reach the centre line of you handlebars. If it way out (in your case too long and a big gap) you most likely need to change yur stem and for most people these days 70mm is as long as they go unless they are XC racers.

As for posture, and 720 bars won't help, you want a mostly straight back and bend from the hip without hunching your shoulders.

There are plenty of online sources including Bike Radar for this info if you want to check them out. BUT this is a starting point and you will need to tweak your setup until it works for you.

Oh and after you set things up, as above, never change more than one thing at a time as a right and a wrong may cancel each other out.

Hope this helps.
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
Posts: 328

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the info giantAstax I will make sure I get the seat in the correct position before I change anything, I did set my seat height by using the heel on the pedal method but not tried the plum-bob method so maybe my seat needs moving forward or backwards.

I have ordered a 65mm stem and some 700mm bars with 30mm rise to try so will try the new stem with my existing bars first as I think 30mm rise may be too high.
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just quickly tried the elbow on the seat nose method and my fingertips just touch the middle of the head cap so guess my seat is way out.
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok so just made sure my seat was at the correct height and used the plum-bob to make sure my legs were positioned over the pedals right too, I then did the elbow on seat and my finger tips are still only just touching the middle of the stem cap Confused
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giantAstax



Joined: 05 Sep 2011
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 9:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Markss wrote:
ok so just made sure my seat was at the correct height and used the plum-bob to make sure my legs were positioned over the pedals right too, I then did the elbow on seat and my finger tips are still only just touching the middle of the stem cap Confused


It's just a guide not a 100% perfect check because top tube lengths vary so much. How does the new riding position feel, any better?
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

giantAstax wrote:
Markss wrote:
ok so just made sure my seat was at the correct height and used the plum-bob to make sure my legs were positioned over the pedals right too, I then did the elbow on seat and my finger tips are still only just touching the middle of the stem cap Confused


It's just a guide not a 100% perfect check because top tube lengths vary so much. How does the new riding position feel, any better?


the parts didn't turn up till Wednesday and didn't have chance to fit them till last night I've only sat on the bike as been too busy to squeeze a ride in but it feels strange but it has had the desired effect and sat me more upright rather than out stretched.

the stem had a bigger clamp on it than my old one so I have had to remove one of the small spacers from the steering tube but there is still a small gap will this be ok with the top cap tightened on?

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stewm



Joined: 19 May 2010
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Location: Darlington

PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ideally the entire steerer tube should be covered by the stem with a 3mm overlap created with spacers. The stem bolts are what clamps it to the steerer tube, not the top cap, which preloads it giving correct tension while you tighten the stem bolts. The key issue is whether the section of the stem which the stem bolts compress fully surrounds the steerer. Yours may just be OK but I'd take advice from your local bike shop.
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mallorcadave



Joined: 28 Feb 2014
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks fine to me, you need at least 1mm gap between the steerer and the top of the stem as you don't want the top cap touching the steerer or you won't be able to pre load the headset bearings.
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
Posts: 328

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

im firly new to most of this and its the first thing I have changed (other than the pedals) after having my bike for a year. so is it ok or not? what does pre loading the bearings do?

I still have a 10mm spacer under the stem I could change this for smaller ones if needed.
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stewm



Joined: 19 May 2010
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gap between the top of the stem and the steerer is fine. I was questioning whether the top bolt of the stem was below the level of the steerer tube (it looks to be) because unless it is the stem won't be fully clamped to the steerer. To make absolutely sure you could use sufficient spacers to position the stem about 2-3mm below the top of the steerer tube then put a 5mm spacer on top.
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Markss



Joined: 27 Jun 2013
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

stewm wrote:
Gap between the top of the stem and the steerer is fine. I was questioning whether the top bolt of the stem was below the level of the steerer tube (it looks to be) because unless it is the stem won't be fully clamped to the steerer. To make absolutely sure you could use sufficient spacers to position the stem about 2-3mm below the top of the steerer tube then put a 5mm spacer on top.


yeah I read it wrong I thought you meant the gap shouldn't be there, both bolts clamp on the steerer but I may change the spacers just so it fits a little better.
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roundmichael28



Joined: 10 Sep 2012
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Location: Cleckheaton

PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2014 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Markss wrote:
giantAstax wrote:
Markss wrote:
ok so just made sure my seat was at the correct height and used the plum-bob to make sure my legs were positioned over the pedals right too, I then did the elbow on seat and my finger tips are still only just touching the middle of the stem cap Confused


It's just a guide not a 100% perfect check because top tube lengths vary so much. How does the new riding position feel, any better?


the parts didn't turn up till Wednesday and didn't have chance to fit them till last night I've only sat on the bike as been too busy to squeeze a ride in but it feels strange but it has had the desired effect and sat me more upright rather than out stretched.

the stem had a bigger clamp on it than my old one so I have had to remove one of the small spacers from the steering tube but there is still a small gap will this be ok with the top cap tightened on?



Nowt wrong with that mate, it'll be fine your top cap will fit in that gap anyway when pulled tight.

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