Sticking brakes.
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Denny69
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:01 pm    Post subject: Sticking brakes. Reply with quote

Have had this problem for a while on my SCR and it befuddled me!!

It first started with my rear caliper sticking causing the brake shoes to rub (ever so slightly) against the rim, not a true disaster just an annoyance. Then recently the front one started doing the same...straight away pound signs started whizzing around my head, but fortunately for me I worked it out and fixed them this morning...oh joy!!! Very Happy

These instructions are based on double pull type calipers found on most roadies but could probably be adapted for other types found on MTB or hybrid.


Tools needed:-

Set of allen keys (types with the ball on one end are best)
Cable puller/Third hand tool (or a willing assistant to help with cable replacement)
Can of WD40
Adjustable spanner
Screwdriver

Time taken:- 30 - 60 minutes

First release brake cable and remove from caliper then remove caliper from fork/seatstay, you may have to take the brake shoes off if so make sure that if they're directional you put them on the right way!!!

Next you need to gain access to the mounting bolt on the caliper. To do this you have to remove the spring from the rear of the caliper by undoing the nut from the mounting bolt (this holds the spring in) it's a funny shape which is where the adjustable spanner comes in. Once thats removed
be very careful removing the spring, I found prising out with a screwdriver the easiest method.

Once the spring is removed you should be able to manipulate the caliper so you can gain access to the mounting bolt. Undo the mounting bolt fully so the caliper is in 2 pieces (there could be a small grub screw that needs removing in order to remove the bolt). Clean the bolt and the housing and give a quick blast with the wonder that is WD40 also spray the other part of the caliper and give it a wiggle to work the WD40.

Now start to re-assemble the caliper tightening the mounting bolt to finger tight making sure that if there is a grub screw for the mounting bolt it is replaced and NOT over tightened. Once you have the caliper back together give it a squeeze to make sure that the action is smooth and returns back to it's original position with ease.

Now that everything is ship shape (hopefully) return the caliper to the fork/seatstay and tighten making sure that the shoes are equal distance from the rim.

Now you need that assistant/cable puller/third hand tool as it makes this part an absolute doddle. You need to put the cable back into the caliper, wind the adjuster right up to the caliper (slackest setting) and try and get the cable into it's original position, doesn't have to be spot on as long as it's close, and re-tighten the cable clamp as tight as you dare without stripping the threads. Give your brakes a squeeze to make sure the action is smooth and that the both shoes are hitting the rim positively if not undo mounting bolt and re-align until they do.

Too much travel on the lever? simply adjust until the brakes are hard on about 1/2 full pull on the lever.

I apologize if this seems a little patronizing but without pics its harder to describe.....next time I write a workshop post I'll try to get pics to make life easier!!! Wink

You can get a cable puller tool from Wiggle for about 5 and believe me it's worth it if, like me, you do your own maintenance!
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Dale
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Joined: 12 Apr 2007
Posts: 1178
Location: Middlesbrough

PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent post Denny, i'm sure others will find it very useful!
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Denny69
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Share and share alike...like I say if I do ANY maintenance from now on on either my roadie or MTB I'll take pics so you can see exactly what I mean!!
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Gunner



Joined: 15 Apr 2007
Posts: 29326
Location: Under Whitestone-Cliffe on the Lake.

PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If, while doing your maintenance Denny, you could take pictures and post them with a "self help" guide then I think that would be a big bonus for this site.

I am very technically aware and don't have any real maintenance/repair issues but it is surprising how many people out there nowadays do find bicycle maintenance a daunting task.

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Agman



Joined: 09 Jan 2008
Posts: 495

PostPosted: Mon Mar 24, 2008 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always thought taking cranks and bottom brackets out was a job for LBS. Now I've the correct tools, I do the job myself Smile Next task is taking a cassette off, again no tools Rolling Eyes
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Denny69
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pics are going to be included in any future posts in this forum Gunner as it took me a good hour or so to try and word my description properly!!!! I tried not to sound too patronising but also had to put myself in a novice DIY'ers hands...

As for the tools for cassette removal Agman, you could either pop round here or I could bring them round to you.....you've got me number and it is literally 10 minutes if that to change a cassette. Wink
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Agman



Joined: 09 Jan 2008
Posts: 495

PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeh, I'll do that, probably after me hols. I need to change the cassette and chain shortly, looking a bit shagged after 3000 miles.

I'll text you, once I get the cassette and chain. Saying that, one job I've never done yet. Now is my chance Wink
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Denny69
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well if it's okay with you AM we could do it, take some pics, and post a "how to" with pics.....chain and cassette...30 mins start to finish. Wink
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Agman



Joined: 09 Jan 2008
Posts: 495

PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've got the Park Tool FR-1, which I had for the freehub, just need the chain whip now. First and foremost is getting the right cassette and chain.
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