Replacing a new spoke (with pics!!)

Denny69 · Joined: 11 Sep 2007 Posts: 720 Location: Stockton on Tees

Replacing a broken spoke

Tools needed:-

Spoke keys
Cassette tool
Chain whip
Tyre levers
Gloves (optional)

Time taken:- 45 - 90 mins depending if you get the truing right!

Method:-

Firstly a pic of tools used

Spokes can break at either end. This example has broke at the hub end on the drive side of the rear wheel, hence the cassette tool and chain whip.

You'll need to start by removing your wheel from the fork/frame.
Arrange the cassette tool and chainwhip as so:

turn the cassette tool whilst holding the chainwhip to loosen the cassette lockring which will just slide off once this has been removed.

Next locate the broken spoke:

note the plastic guard between the cassette and hub is off, these just clip off (be careful though if you wish it to go back on).

Now remove the broken spoke:

don't worry about the nipple you get new one's with new spokes.

Time to add the new one:

as a guide to where the spoke is going put the new nipple in the spoke hole....don't do what I did and try to put it in the hole for the air valve Embarassed

Now you'll have to bend the spoke a little bit to get it in the spoke nipple:

don't worry as when it's tightened it will straighten out:

Next when you think the spoke is tight enough give it a "plink" like a harp:

if the tension is correct (or near enough) it will sound like the rest of the spokes on the wheel.

Replace rim tape, put tyre back on and put the cassette back on. There is only 1 way the cassette will go on and the freewheel will have a smaller (key) groove on it:

line these up and it will slide back on. You may have 1 or 2 gears loose from the cassette simply do the same with them and then place the lockring on the cassette tool and tighten up on the cassette (be very careful not to cross thread as this will damage the freewheel). You won't need the chainwhip as the freewheel will lockout. And that's it..easy.

You will have noticed that apart from the chainwhip, cassette tool, no specialist tools were needed.....I didn't even need a spoke key!!! you'll only need these if the wheel is out of true which thankful for me it wasn't too bad!!.

martinjake2006 · Joined: 15 Feb 2008 Posts: 13 Location: Eaglescliffe

Well done Denny! good picture's with clear precise instructions, keep up the good work I am sure it will benefit a lot of people that don't know how to do this sort of maintenance.
Martin. Rolling Eyes

Gunner · Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 4:57 pm Post subject:

Fantastic Denny. Very Happy

This is a great feature for the site, excellent job, well done!!!

Look forward to the next one Wink

Denny69 · Joined: 11 Sep 2007 Posts: 720 Location: Stockton on Tees

Thanks guys....was a bit worried that I wouldn't be able to pull it off but it sounds as though I have.....'scuse the decor kitchen needs finishing Embarassed

Agman · Joined: 09 Jan 2008 Posts: 296

Nice one, Denny. Not picking faults, but when you thread the spoke through hub hole. Don't you then feed the threaded (nipple) end of the spoke into the rim hole, which you then screw the nipple on.

Not much difference, either way. Just I saw it in the Haynes manual Wink

Denny69 · Joined: 11 Sep 2007 Posts: 720 Location: Stockton on Tees

8th and 9th pics AM...... Very Happy

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