Bikes for Breathing

ianA · Joined: 22 Apr 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Hertfordshire

I'm not blessed with great breathing and had to give up sport for a few years. I'm now able to ride am looking for a hard tail which can take relieve some of the stress load. Budget up to £1000

Last summer I fell back in love with biking and bought a giant entry level to see how I'd could cope. Loving it I want to hit some single tracks and routes which are more fun than a tow path. However it seems sluggish.

Not being an expert I have a couple of questions:

1:I have a strange mental predicament. I really want to know what is my fitness/health level and what is down to the bike. What is the difference between me spending £500 on a bike and £1000 would I notice the difference? Is it the frame or components which make the difference.

2: I'm thinking of a XC as they seem to be lighter,faster? Less stress? I was thinking of a rockhopper Pro disc. Now people have posted about the boardman bikes and I've noticed they are lighter.. Is lighter the key?

Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Gunner · Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 6:33 pm Post subject:

Well, Ian, could you have made your first post on this Forum any more controversial Rolling Eyes

The arguments relating to weight/cost/fitness/etc., etc., could rage all day Shocked

I can only give my opinion for whatever you think it may be worth.

1: I am aiming this at an "average, recreational" rider.

I do not believe that the difference between a £500 and £1000 bike in the similiar category, is that great to make a significant difference to the rider.
Where the rider benefits will come from is a greater reliability in terms of braking, gear shifting, component reliability and durability.
The difference in weight between 2 such bikes may be only ounces, possibly a pound.

It is the fitness level of the rider and having the correct "fit to bike" that makes the most significant difference to performance, in my belief.

To be able to more accurately gauge your needs, I question this paragraph;

"Last summer I fell back in love with biking and bought a giant entry level to see how I'd could cope. Loving it I want to hit some single tracks and routes which are more fun than a tow path. However it seems sluggish."

I get the impression that you loved your Giant!!

At what point did it become sluggish, could it be the terrain, the tyres, are you selecting the correct gear ratios for your terrain..........

I'd question what you've got very carefully, and Giant are a good Brand of bike, before you decide to spend a lot of money on something that may just perform the same.

2: I'd definetley go for a XC bike, they are much more versatile and allow you to do any type of riding.

I've probably raised more questions for you than you have asked but don't let that put you off seeking more advice, I'm just trying to save you money and help you make the right selection Wink

Alex. · Joined: 10 Feb 2008 Posts: 180 Location: Norton

Ian, i pretty much agree with what Gunner has said above. the only thing i would elaborate on is this;

it can make a difference to your riding if your riding a hardtail or full susser. i personally find it slightly more difficult to climb hills on my fill susser compared to my hardtail. yet JohnC (a member on here who me and Gunner ride with) has just upgraded to a full susser and he finds it easier.

components on a bike do make a great deal of difference i find. ive just changed from 2.3 inch tyres to 1.95s and find i can climb easier and go faster with these on. i have a Giant too and they are brilliant bikes.

it make be wise sitting down and possibly upgrading what you already have. do bear in mind though, a full susser will never be as light as a hardtail Wink

as for fitness vs bike. i suppose a little saying comes into play " a craftsman is only as good as his tools"
now i aint saying go spend 3k on a bike and you will be mint. what i am saying is the stage your at, and the stage you wish to achieve have to be relevant to the bike you own. no point being well into you bikes and being fit as a fiddle on an 80 quid touch from tesco

ianA · Joined: 22 Apr 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Hertfordshire

Thanks for the replies it's very helpfull. I've ruled out full Suss as I think it would be over the ott as I'll be using it to ride to work as well whatever the weekend brings.

The giant was good on long rides but If I wanted to inject some pace it seems slow. (gravel paths, fields and roads) You're right it may have been my riding style.

I have in the back of my head something that keeps questioning if it's by fitness or the bike. I'm pretty sure it's 90% me but if I had a bike which I couldn't blame - I'd know where I stand / how badly I ride Very Happy

I think I'm looking for something faster rolling and nimble and would scarifice on say the forks as I wouldn't be chucking myself off drops etc. I can upgrade later if the urge for broken bones becomes too great.

When looking for a good bike should I look at getting a lighter overall bike or faster rolling tires. Does one better the other.

I've noticed that some bikes like the focus and boardman cube bikes are better spec'd for the money that other. Now does this mean better performance or is a bike with a better frame and less spec better?

I like what you're saying about 195s making climbs easier Very Happy

Filthy · Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 407 Location: Costa del Smog

Here's a couple of bikes to consider if your going for the XC side of things.

Scott Scale... fast hardtail
http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/acatalog/Scott_Scale_40.html

Commencal combi s... xc orientated full sussr
http://www.realcycles.com/products.php?plid=m1b0s1p1394

Filthy · Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 407 Location: Costa del Smog

Well forget the full susser I must have been typing that when you were, my advice would be to buy the bike with the best frame you can afford then replace the components as they break.

Alex. · Joined: 10 Feb 2008 Posts: 180 Location: Norton

as the big fella above says, start off with a good frame, and build it up. as for sluggish, make sure your running gear is working smoothly. dismantle, regrease and generally service your rear mech, chain, bottom bracket. once thats done, look at some "low rolling resistance" tyres. 195's are ample. as for the forks and things like that, i wouldnt of really said that would make too much of a difference to speed, unless your on about climbing. i think tyres are the main thing. also dismantle your hubs on the wheels and regrease the bearings to make sure they're running nice too. that made a big difference to my bike i think.

ianA · Joined: 22 Apr 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Hertfordshire

Thanks again for the advice and links.

I think I'll go down the new faster rolling tires as see how I go with that. Can you recommend a certain make or tire.

I've had a look at the schwalbe site. I've noticed a few bike specs mentioning them. Which make would you go for. If you recommend 195's I'll go for those.

http://www.schwalbe.co.uk/c1-1035-mtb.html

Do you feel like a salesman yet?

Filthy · Joined: 12 Apr 2008 Posts: 407 Location: Costa del Smog

Schwalbe Racing Ralphs are about the fastest rolling tyres about that have any kind of grip. 2.1 should be fine, I use the 2.25's and they come up a bit small in size anyway.

Could always try a nobby nic on the front for grip and a racing ralph on the back for speed.

ianA · Joined: 22 Apr 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Hertfordshire

Excellent Stuff. Cheers Filthy.

Gunner · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2008 4:50 pm Post subject:

Ian, if you are definetely sure that going down the route of a new bike is the way forward, then you would not go far wrong to look at/consider these 2 options one at the start of your price range the other at the top end.

I have owned both of these bikes in previous years and raced them, and upgraded them and find them to be quite outstanding.

http://www.bikescene.co.uk/moreinfo.php?variation=1333&sale=0

http://www.bikescene.co.uk/moreinfo.php?variation=1332&sale=0

Also, the Specialized Rockhoppers are a fantastic performing bike and I would recommend them to anyone.

http://www.bikescene.co.uk/variation.php?model=13

Just 2 more things, 1.95" tyres are good and will help but I prefer a 2.1" on the back for comfort and traction and maybe a 1.95" or a 2.1" on the front. I think you need to give some consideration to where you will be riding and in what type of weather before you commit to tyre choice.

I find the Panaracer Cinder a fantastic tyre for the rear, and very good up front to.

http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ProductDetail.aspx?ProdID=5360012024&referid=s hopz

2nd, is your current bike the right fit, that can have a lot to do with not being able to transfer your riding power to the back wheel. Especially so if the bike is too small and constricting you when you get up out of the saddle to climb or put some power down, seat height also is a big factor.

ianA · Joined: 22 Apr 2008 Posts: 5 Location: Hertfordshire

Thanks again for the replies.

Whilst deciding what to do, I thought I'd head out on the old bike. Unfortunately I found that an idiot had decided to steal it from our 'not so secure bike lock up'. Crying or Very sad

So without a bike I've finally placed an order for a Eldridge Grade through the cycle2work scheme, and it'll be stored my flat Very Happy

it comes with Ritchey Logic Mountain V4 Clipless pedals, and I haven't used clipless before which slightly worries me - how many times can I fall off! Laughing

I'll be using the bike for the short journey to work each day and I was thinking of jumping on in the trainers rather MTB shoes.

I guess I can't use these pedals without MTB shoes so I'll swap the pedals out. I was wondering if it's easy swapping out the pedals when I want to go clipless on the weekend or am I making alot of work for myself?

Is there a big advantage to clipless? apart from saving my shins.

Gunner · Posted: Mon May 05, 2008 7:33 pm Post subject:

Swapping the pedals takes minutes.

Ideally, you need a pedal spanner but carefully select the right size open ended spanner and keep it handy and you should be able to do this operation in under 5 minutes, just make sure you nip the pedals up tight enough when you put them on. There's nothing worse than a pedal deciding to "unscrew" itself mid ride Rolling Eyes

Good choice on the Eldridge Grade by the way, it's a fantastic bike, see here;

http://www.mtb-extreme.co.uk/decided-to-tinker-t536.html

Wink

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