riding position..
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dave0w



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 8:31 pm    Post subject: riding position.. Reply with quote

when i ride for over 1hr i find i i get hand pain. like i put my upper body weight on my hands the the ride. i feel that i am sitting in a good place. and after a nice 3hr ride today i feel super but my hand feel like they want to fall off.

i assume this means i am sitting wrong on my saddle but i dont know what to change to try and stop it

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Kajjal



Joined: 29 May 2013
Posts: 756

PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2016 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like you have too much weight on your hands.

Start with your saddle position. With the pedal at the bottom and crank in line with the seat tube you need a slight bend in your leg. Signs the saddle is too high are feet pointing downwards or rocking on the saddle as you stretch to reach the pedals when pedalling. Next look up KOPS and use it to set your saddle fore /aft position roughly correct, you can later adjust as needed. Also make sure your saddle is level on level ground. All of this is to get your legs in the right place not to adjust reach to the bars.

Next check the drop from the saddle to the bars. Most people go from level to about two inches. Move the spacers to give you about an inch of drop, flipping the stem upright reduces drop and reach so can be worth trying if you need to.

The result you are after is to be comfortable in the bike rather than being stiffly perched onto of it. You should be slid back on the saddle , leaning slightly into the bike and stable not needing to move foward. Also you should not get any aches or pains. Main thing is take your time and it may take a few rides to get things right.
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Richard A Thackeray



Joined: 31 Jan 2009
Posts: 3240
Location: Normanton, Wakefield. West Riding Of Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kajjal wrote:
It sounds like you have too much weight on your hands.

Start with your saddle position. With the pedal at the bottom and crank in line with the seat tube you need a slight bend in your leg. Signs the saddle is too high are feet pointing downwards or rocking on the saddle as you stretch to reach the pedals when pedalling. Next look up KOPS and use it to set your saddle fore /aft position roughly correct, you can later adjust as needed. Also make sure your saddle is level on level ground. All of this is to get your legs in the right place not to adjust reach to the bars.

Next check the drop from the saddle to the bars. Most people go from level to about two inches. Move the spacers to give you about an inch of drop, flipping the stem upright reduces drop and reach so can be worth trying if you need to.

The result you are after is to be comfortable in the bike rather than being stiffly perched onto of it. You should be slid back on the saddle , leaning slightly into the bike and stable not needing to move foward. Also you should not get any aches or pains. Main thing is take your time and it may take a few rides to get things right.


Yes, too far forward on the bike, transferring weight onto your hands

Plus, is the saddle tilted forward? (nose-down)


A flat saddle, & sat well back, to allow for the correct knee postion



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dave0w



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Sat Aug 20, 2016 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

after looking at my bike the saddle is very slightly tilted forward and moved all the way forward. i have a 130mm stem(stock one) so i will have to get a shorter one if moving the saddle back, i moved the saddle forward because i was way to stretched out.

also i have found the bard to be about 40mm(ish) below the seat so i flipped the stem as told to and it a lot better. i will have to look into bike set up and make a some changes to my set up.

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Richard A Thackeray



Joined: 31 Jan 2009
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Location: Normanton, Wakefield. West Riding Of Yorkshire

PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dave0w wrote:
after looking at my bike the saddle is very slightly tilted forward and moved all the way forward. i have a 130mm stem(stock one) so i will have to get a shorter one if moving the saddle back, i moved the saddle forward because i was way to stretched out

Start with a correct saddle position/leg extention, then stem-length to suit
Don't forget to take into consideration, whether you've got 'compact', or traditional bars

dave0w wrote:
also i have found the bard to be about 40mm(ish) below the seat so i flipped the stem as told to and it a lot better. i will have to look into bike set up and make a some changes to my set up.


My winter/work bike (the blue Ribble pictured above) has the bar-top, about 70mm below the saddle

Oddly, my Gran Fondo (pictured below - but with an 'undropped' stem) is circa 40mm below the saddle
That said, it does have a longer head-tube, for 'all day comfort'
It did feel very odd though, sitting so high

It was solely my mistake, as I didn't check carefully the 'drop' of the stem, when I ordered the Ritchey items



NB;
note the saddle set-back, on both bikes (I do have fairly long Femurs though)



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dave0w



Joined: 25 Jun 2013
Posts: 231

PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 12:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have rotated the stem so it now is a riser not a drop, however i have moved 30mm of stem spacers to lower the bars and the bike now feels super.

i could only move to saddle back 10mm and up 15mm but it again now also feel super.

i think my problem are all in relation to stem length.
when rotating the stem the measurement from saddle tip to bars was 17mm shorter and it feel a lot better, this morning after 2hr's my hands did start to give me a little gip so i think the way foreword is backwards and i am going to start with a 70mm stem, that's a drop of 50mm over the stock position i hope this will also give me room to bring the seat back another 10mm

also on a side note i was told by a local shop what you guys is saying is 100% spot on but i should also try doubling up on bar tape as i have massive hands, i am thinking of getting a cheap set of aero bars as that have a nice big grip area on the top of them.

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Kajjal



Joined: 29 May 2013
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 21, 2016 11:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it's improving, road bikes can be a pain to setup right but once you get there it makes sense.
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Richard A Thackeray



Joined: 31 Jan 2009
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Location: Normanton, Wakefield. West Riding Of Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kajjal wrote:
Glad it's improving, road bikes can be a pain to setup right but once you get there it makes sense.


Yes, as you're not moving about anywhere near as much as on a MTB, you're either sat, or climbing out of the saddle, not altering body weight around

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Robmet



Joined: 04 Jan 2010
Posts: 1892

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

They take ages to dial in.

Just make sure you adjust one thing at a time and dont be afraid to move it back to where it was and try something else.

Also, before you get too carried away with changing things, get a tape measure and a bit of paper and make a note of where everything is no so you have a base point to return to is it all goes weird. You can update your measurements as you become happy with things, that way you can always go back to your last happy set up.

On my bit of paper I have:
Pedal at bottom of crank to top of seat (up the seat post)
Nose of saddle behind BB using a vertical spirit level.
Nose of saddle to bars
Top of saddle to bars (drop)

That gives me enough to get my control points all back in relation to each other if I make a change. Or setting up other bikes.
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Richard A Thackeray



Joined: 31 Jan 2009
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Location: Normanton, Wakefield. West Riding Of Yorkshire

PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robmet wrote:
On my bit of paper I have:
Pedal at bottom of crank to top of seat (up the seat post)
Nose of saddle behind BB using a vertical spirit level.
Nose of saddle to bars
Top of saddle to bars (drop)


And, in correct order of importance too


A few years ago, with the Ridley, I changed inner-soles in my Sidis once, & ended up having to move the saddle 1mm higher.........
I was that used to my position

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Jim Mc



Joined: 02 Mar 2011
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Buy some gel hand mitts and try not to carry weight on your back, carry it on the frame of the bike.
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